Wednesday, July 11, 2012
How I copied my favorite pants
I already had this Issey Miyake designer pattern for Vogue. It may no longer be available but, what I like is how the pant leg is fit through the thigh. The pattern also has the full front fly zipper and jean styling of pockets.
Now all I had to do was adjust the pattern to fit MY body.
First step was to take measurements from a pair of retail jeans that fit well. After measuring the circumference of the pants at the hip and waist the next most important measurement is the crotch length and exact curve.
The best way to accurately measure the crotch is by putting one pant leg inside the other and using a ruler that bends. This will give you the crotch length AND the exact shape of the curve. Compare these measurements to the curve and length of the pattern crotch seam.
My pattern required lengthening the back and making the rear curve more shallow than the pattern ( I do not have a Kim Kardashian booty ).
Next I used the waistband pattern and cut a waistband out of fabric because just measuring the waistband is not an accurate indicator of fit. Mark the center front, center back and side seams on the waistband and try on the waistband.
My waist was definitely larger than the pattern so I divided the extra length into four smaller measurements ( ie, divide 2" by four equals four 1/2" ) and spread the increases to waistband on each side of center back and both sides of center front.
Now the top of the pants must also be increased to match the waistband.
This whole process is somewhat like doing a rub-off to copy a garment. A rub-off is when each seam is pinned and a tissue or light fabric is placed over the garment and a soft pencil is used to rub on the top layer so the pins create an outline of the garment pieces.
Kenneth King has an online class at Craftsy called Jeanius that teaches a technique he has developed to copy your favorite jeans.
As long as the final fit is perfect whichever method is used you have succeeded!
Posted by JD Nowland